EDIT: DO NOT PIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was asked recently if i would share the method i used to create the “lace” on “The Difference Between A Plum”., Originally posted on the StitchinFingers site in the Machine Embroidery Group, i’ve replicated it here as well.
This is for when you are more confident of your abilities, though the technique can still be applied to “solid” fabrics :) I’m also assuming that firstly you know how to free motion!
This wonderful water soluble is similar to the Pellon brand,ordered from Tristan Threads in BC. You can easily draw on this one without the moisture from your marker dissolving it right away! I drew my design on the soluble and attached fabric to all sides so it would fit in the hoop.
Then i hooped: not all will fit in the hoop of course, so when you put it inside the rings, be careful not to tear the soluble. (You needn’t worry about this if it’s an actual fabric you have drawn on.)
For this i chose a very narrow zigzag–i find it easier to “grab” the threads this way on a soluble. If you are using solid cloth, you can use a straight, or this for more texture. I am using a free motion foot, but the display shows a regular foot–make sure you have the proper foot on! I don’t worry about the length either as the feed dogs are down and are not going to help the regulator grab the material.
Then i worked the design, going over and around at least 4 times on each section. This variable can change depending on the thickness you want on the soluble, or what effect you want on a solid fabric. If you are doing this on a soluble, keep your passes close to each other: if any weak spots are on the finished piece, it can fall to pieces because the thread hasn’t attached itself to the previous pass.
And the back of this part: i have used a finer thread in the bobbin and it’s barely noticeable. The needle thread was a 20wt cotton (also from Tristan who i highly recommend for a LOT of products for us Canadians!), the bobbin is a regular polyester type.
Move the hoop to the unworked portion, again being careful to neither tear the soluble, or distort the previous stitching.
I then widened the stitch a fraction and went over the whole thing again, with one or two passes on each section–some were weaker than others so look at the back if you need to determine what those areas are.
BEFORE i washed away the soluble, i cut the piece where i intended. Because i am adding this work to something else, this saves using long lengths of soluble. (Again you could do this with solid fabric, depending on the end effect you need.)
These will be used end to end so you can see the advantage to not having to use long thin strips of soluble. There were a few areas that i had run over the cut line on, but because the threads are stabilized with several passes, cutting didn’t present a problem (this time :) )
Here’s the piece folded over to show the difference in the front and the back. If you are using this for applying to something else, make sure you get the right side up! Left side is the front, right side is the back, showing the bobbin thread:
This was then hand stitched to these little beauties:
I’m also posting this a reminder to myself to do some machine work again! I scored a few large pieces of a sheer from the share bin during residency, and once the red work is half done (:P), will start on that.